13 February 2007
The invitation to stay at Usa River, on an abandoned sisal estate, in our friends’ ‘datcha’ was too good an opportunity to miss. The house was converted from several workers’ cottages and apart from the absence of mod cons such as electricity, fridge and clean water was ideal for a complete break for the whole of February. The nearest neighbours were twenty minutes’ walk away. Bliss! We had the generous use of an old but excellent Range Rover which allowed access to the nearby village and, occasionally, Arusha town, but Kay and I spent most of the time on the veranda just watching nature happen, or strolling round the rapidly re-wilding estate. A brief three-day ‘safari’ to Tarangire and Manyara, and three visits to beautiful Arusha National Park provided a wider view of the area. But without doubt the highlight was a day out with James.
We met to make arrangements, first at the Via Via in Arusha, then at the Rotterdam in Usa River. James is a delightfully disorganised but enthusiastic double for Ben Kingsley playing Ghandi, and John Lennon. He seemed to know everyone and was greeted warmly in both venues. His mother asked him totake her on an East African safari in 1976 and he has been hooked on Africa ever since. With extensive experience guiding bird tours in many countries around the world, he is now becoming established as ‘the birdman of Arusha’, and as a guide, even for Tanzania.
We met on the main Nairobi road shortly after 07.00 and were off. Tragically one of his dogs had followed him to the main road and minutes later had been run down and killed. Deeply moved by this, James nevertheless insisted on continuing, but was distracted throughout the day with worry about his family’s reaction.
We are not twitchers, but do like to see rarities where they belong. Habitats that harbour rarities are likely to be special places. James’ special stamping ground, the ’Lark Plain’ is an excellent example of this rule.
Just 45 minutes out of Arusha a track to the right (East) runs straight across a wide flat treeless grass plain. Quite different from any habitat near Arusha, it’s much drier, though green this year after exceptionally long ‘short’ rains, quite flat, and uncultivated. Flights of sandgrouse – Chestnut-bellied and Yellow-throated according to James, who knows the calls – returning from their early morning drink provide the first excitement, then Capped Wheatear indicate this area is very dry. It seems it’s in the rain shadow of Mt. Meru. A small group of Ostrich are in the far distance through the ‘scope, and a Kori Bustard displaying. Kay asks: ‘Can that be a Secretary Bird?’ and of course it is. Then there are the raptors, at their best this early in the morning. Three harrier species, a Great Sparrowhawk looking very guilty as it disappears fast and straight into the distance. Lanners soar almost like buzzards – I always think if it looks like a giant Kestrel it’s a Lanner, while a Saker looks more like a large Peregrine.
We’re reeling with excitement already and haven’t really started yet. James orders a stop at a particular spot that looks just like all the others, and releases Pilot, his gentle little Breton spaniel. Pilot quarters the ground systematically till: ‘There’s one!’ she’s flushed a lark. All larks look alike to me, but James has made this place his own, and knows all the calls and songs as well as subtle differences in shape speckling, habitat and behaviour. This is the local version of the Spike-heeled Lark, Beesley’s, which is now officially a ‘good’ species. It is restricted to the Lark Plain; not only that, it is only found on just a few hectares, just here! A comprehensive survey failed to find it elsewhere, making this one of the most restricted and rare of all bird species, with a global population of perhaps no more than 45 individuals.
Unusually, Beesley’s is quite distinctive in shape and stance and even pattern, so once you see it you can identify it. The problem is to see it, as it’s well camouflaged and flies only reluctantly. That’s where Pilot comes into her own. I’ve heard of foxhounds and truffle hounds, but a lark-dog? Pilot is unique!
After such a start you might think the day could only go downhill. Not at all! Having ‘had’ Beesley’s Lark and given a pair of them plenty of watching time, we were able to take our time with no fewer than six other lark species, three other wheatears, a melanistic Zebra, Tommies that are hunted, so very shy, a small snake that took a few minutes for some man-watching, and much more. Before lunch. At the far side of the grass plain is a thin thorn woodland with a single tree big enough to provide a little shade from the now-hot sun. Here are a good selection of acacia woodland birds including a pair of White-eyed Kestrels at their nest (I couldn’t see the white eye so prefer the alternative name, Greater Kestrel; James was very rude at this point about my 12X30 miniature binns, but eventually began to see their advantage, and I like them because they’re light and easily pocketable, and work really well in bright light).
Memorable lifers for me included Steel-blue Whydah, Pangani Longclaw, Fischer’s Starling, and Grey-headed Silverbill. The Bateleur and Pigmy Falcon are old favourites, great to see again. I ticked-off only 80-odd species for the day but it was far better to start to get to know the place and the specialities than to attempt a big day record.
Conclusion:
Place: Magic, unique, very special
Birds: See above: great
James: You’re a star bird-guide .. Many many thanks for a great day out
Dick Ashford 6 March 2007
