Lark Plains

A Great Day Out

13 February 2007

The invitation to stay at Usa River, on an abandoned sisal estate, in our friends’ ‘datcha’ was too good an opportunity to miss. The house was converted from several workers’ cottages and apart from the absence of mod cons such as electricity, fridge and clean water was ideal for a complete break for the whole of February. The nearest neighbours were twenty minutes’ walk away. Bliss! We had the generous use of an old but excellent Range Rover which allowed access to the nearby village and, occasionally, Arusha town, but Kay and I spent most of the time on the veranda just watching nature happen, or strolling round the rapidly re-wilding estate. A brief three-day ‘safari’ to Tarangire and Manyara, and three visits to beautiful Arusha National Park provided a wider view of the area. But without doubt the highlight was a day out with James.


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Mes amis - Amur

Juv Amur Falcon. Photo by Steve Bird 2005

A thunderous tropical rain storm arriving, most unusually out of the north, broke against the great black massifs of Meru and Manjaro in the early hours of November 23. Shortly after daybreak Dismus and I once again escaped Arusha via the northbound "Nairobi road"; for a while yet this African highway is both dangerously and delightfully narrow - all too soon it will be upgraded by engineers of the next dynasty to a far more murderous, three-lane 'Chinese modern standard'. Maybe. Because today raging torrents of coffee-coloured water frequently impede our progress as they rush the great slopes down. And, once we have descended to the desert plain of larks, it is clear, very few cars are making it through from Kenya.


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